Poinsettia care
Latin name: Euphorbia pulcherrimaBefore the Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) became the decoration of the Advent and Christmas table, it was very popular in its native home, Central America. It primarily comes from Mexico, where the Aztecs extracted dye from the poinsettia's red bracts to make paint.
It was also used as a medicinal plant; in small quantities, the poinsettia's sap was applied to heal wounds and reduce fever. For the Aztecs, the poinsettia also had symbolic significance, revered as a symbol of purity and rebirth.
It owes its spread not to these, but to its decorative value. It began to become known in the United States in the early to mid-1800s, and from the 1900s, it started to become increasingly popular in Europe as well.
In the United States, the plant was popularized by Joel Poinsett, the first Mexican-American ambassador, who brought it to the United States in 1828. He began cultivating them in the greenhouse of his home in South Carolina and later gave them to his friends and botanical gardens. In America, it also received the English name Poinsettia in his honor.
Over the years, the poinsettia gained increasing popularity, with the Ecke family being the first to create several new varieties of the plant. Although the poinsettia is most commonly seen in red, today it is available in numerous sizes and colors. Varieties of poinsettias can be found with white, yellow, and pink bracts as well. The sizes are also very varied, with some specimens reaching up to 3 feet (1 meter) tall.
Red and white Poinsettia flowers - Euphorbia pulcherrima
In some countries, the Euphorbia pulcherrima is known as 'Santa Claus flower,' a reference to the celebration of Saint Nicholas and the plant's frequent use in Christmas decorations. For these reasons, it is also called the Christmas flower, or holiday flower. Its colorful bracts made it popular during the holiday season, especially in Christmas decorations. In many cultures, the poinsettia has become a symbol of Christmas.
- Introduction to Poinsettia
- What to Look for When Buying Poinsettia?
- Care for Poinsettia
- Poinsettia Repotting and Planting
- Poinsettia Wintering, Overwintering
- Summer Care for Poinsettia
- Pruning and Thinning Poinsettia
- Reblooming Poinsettia
- Poinsettia Propagation
- Poinsettia Diseases, Pests, and main Causes of its Death
- Is the Poinsettia Toxic?
Introduction to Poinsettia
Wild poinsettias are found in moist, mountainous areas and tropical forests, where they thrive in warm, tropical, or subtropical climates. In their native habitat, they grow as shrubs in the forest undergrowth, reaching heights of up to 13 feet (4 meters).
Indoor poinsettia specimens are generally smaller, with heights typically ranging between 12 inches (30cm) and 3 feet (1 meter).
The poinsettia is a winter decorative plant, with its most striking feature being the colorful bracts, which are most commonly red but can also be pink, white, or even yellow. These colorful bracts surround the very small greenish-yellow flowers, which are located in the center of the poinsettia's colorful bracts. The leaves beneath the colorful upper leaves are dark green, smooth, and shiny.
What to Look for When Buying Poinsettia?
Before buying these beautiful plants, consider whether you can provide the appropriate conditions for them in your home, as without these, you will only be able to enjoy the beauty of the poinsettia for a short time.
Pink Poinsettia - Euphorbia pulcherrima
- It's worth examining the plant at the time of purchase, as the dry, warm air in large shopping centers can cause the flowers to start drying quickly. Therefore, do not buy poinsettias on which we see yellowed or wilting, drying leaves, as this process is often irreversible, and the plant may decay within a few days.
- If the poinsettia is wrapped in cellophane, unwrap it before purchase, examine the leaves, or ask a salesperson to do so. Yellowing, wilting leaves can sometimes indicate the presence of pests.
- Ideally, look for a poinsettia that is not yet fully blooming and not shedding its pollen, as it will last longer. Pollen is easily noticeable on the red bracts.
- Once you've found a suitable plant, bring it home and find a bright but cool place for it. If the plant is wrapped in cellophane, unwrap it immediately, as the soil can easily become moldy, and the poinsettia's roots are very oxygen-sensitive, so the plastic wrapping suffocates them.
- During the winter, only take the poinsettia out of the shopping center into the cold street if it is wrapped in tissue paper beforehand, as the significant temperature difference can cause the poinsettia to get cold within minutes, so minimize its exposure to the cold.
Care for Poinsettia
Care of poinsettia in brief: it has a high light requirement but should only receive indirect sunlight. Water regularly but moderately. It thrives in temperatures between 64-75 °F (18-24 °C). Protect from drafts and extreme temperature changes.
Overall, if you do not live in a tropical climate, caring for poinsettia is not the easiest task (as you will read below), but if you can meet it needs, you will have a beautiful and interesting flower for Christmas, and even summer. In other climates, it might be easier to grow poinsettia indoors rather than in the garden. In tropical climates, you can plant it outdoors with appropriate light conditions.
Light Requirements for Poinsettia
One of the most important factors in caring for poinsettia is its light requirement. Poinsettia is light-loving plant, so it is crucial to provide enough light for healthy growth and blooming. It prefers indirect but bright light, such as near a window in the house where it receives plenty of natural light but is protected from direct sunlight. If kept in a too-dark place, the plant will not grow or bloom well.
When planting poinsettia in the garden, choose a location with only a little filtered sunlight (such as under the shade of a leafy tree) or a completely shaded spot, free from direct sunlight.
Intense, direct sunlight can burn the leaves and bracts of poinsettias, while too little light can cause the bracts to lose their vibrant colors and become faded.
Additionally, it is important to know that poinsettia is sensitive to the photoperiod, needing longer, darker nights in the fall to bloom. Therefore, it is crucial that it is not exposed to artificial light at night to maintain its natural cycle and bloom.
To encourage blooming and color change in the bracts, the poinsettia needs adequate and timely light exposure. For 8-10 weeks, it requires shorter daylight periods (about 12 hours or less) and longer, uninterrupted dark periods. This is why it usually blooms around Christmas when the days are shorter.
Avoid light pollution and artificial light during the nighttime when it should be in dark. This includes lamps, TV lights, street lights, and any other light sources. The simplest solution is to cover the plant during the dark period, perhaps with a box, but leave enough space for air to circulate around it.
Temperature Requirements for Poinsettia
Poinsettia is a tropical plant, so it thrives best in a warm environment, with ideal daytime temperatures between 64-75 °F (18-24 °C). During the poinsettia’s blooming period, a cooler nighttime temperature of 59-64 °F (15-18 °C) is ideal.
In winter, ensure that the temperature does not fall below 50 °F (10 °C), as this can damage the plant and can cause the poinsettia’s leaves to drop. Similarly, too high a temperature can also be harmful, causing leaf drop, wilting, and burning of the leaves, as well as slowing growth since the plant uses its energy for survival instead of growth.
The plant does not tolerate drafts or sudden temperature changes well, so it is important to keep it in a place where it's not directly exposed to cold air, such as from a window or door, and avoid placing it in the path of air blown from an air conditioner.
If moving your poinsettia from indoors to the garden or vice versa, do so gradually. Do not expose it to sudden significant temperature changes; give it a few days to acclimatize to its new environment, whether indoors or in the garden.
A warm environment is crucial for the poinsettia not only for growth but also for blooming. Maintaining the appropriate temperature helps keep it healthy.
Poinsettia Water Requirements
The poinsettia plant needs moderate watering. It is important that its soil remains evenly moist but not overly wet, as this can lead to root rot. Water the poinsettia when the top layer of soil (about 1-2 inches / 2-3 cm) feels dry to the touch.
Its soil should be well-draining to prevent the roots from "soaking" in water. Water the poinsettia thoroughly until water starts to drain out of the holes at the bottom. After watering, do not leave water in the saucer or pot cover; pour it out. Do not water or mist the leaves, as this increases the risk of disease.
Generally, water once a week, but increase the frequency in warmer, drier environments. One method of watering your poinsettia is to place the pot in a container of standing water once a week. Once the soil is soaked, remove the pot from the water.
If the tap water has a high salt or mineral content (such as in areas with hard water), minerals can accumulate in the soil over time and harm the plant. You can use rainwater, distilled water, or filtered water for watering to prevent potential issues.
Although it prefers moderate humidity levels around 40-60%, avoid excessively misting the poinsettia's leaves as they are prone to fungal diseases. If necessary, rather increase or decrease the room's or environment's humidity. If this is not possible and the air is too dry, use a handheld humidifier around the plant once a day at most.
Instead of misting its leaves, placing the pot on a humidity tray can be a better solution. For this, choose a tray larger than the pot's diameter, fill it evenly with pebbles, and add water. Place the pot on the pebbles, ensuring the bottom of the pot does not touch the water.
White Poinsettia - Euphorbia pulcherrima
Poinsettia Fertilization
Fertilizing your poinsettia is recommended during the growing season (spring and summer) and during blooming. During these periods, provide fertilized water every two to three weeks, at most the dilution indicated on the fertilizer package. In fall and winter, when preparing for blooming and after blooming, reduce the nutrient supply, and eventually, you can stop it altogether.
Fertilization can start when new shoots and leaves appear on the plant, which can vary in timing.
Use a balanced fertilizer with equal or near-equal NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) ratios, such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Fertilizers for houseplants or foliage plants are generally suitable. It is best if the fertilizer besides the NPKs also contains trace elements like iron, manganese, and magnesium, in addition to the NPK trio.
You can protect the plant's roots from fertilizer burn by soaking the soil with plain water before applying the fertilized water.
Monitor the plant during fertilization and adjust the frequency based on observations. For example, yellowing leaves of the poinsettia, stunted growth, and poor blooming can all be signs of too much or too little fertilizer.
Planting and Repotting Poinsettia
Most of the time, we keep our poinsettia as potted plant indoors, so repotting is primarily discussed, although planting and repotting happens similarly. When repotting your poinsettia, it is important to proceed carefully to avoid damaging the plant. The ideal time for repotting is in the spring when the plant has finished blooming and enters its growth phase, with new green leaves appearing.
It is best to prune the poinsettia first, and only do repotting after. When repotting, choose a pot only slightly larger (1-2 inches / 2-3 cm) in diameter than the previous one. The pot should have drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to flow out.
Use loose, well-draining, slightly acidic soil. The best soil is which also contains a mixture of peat, perlite, sand, or vermiculite to improve drainage.
Before repotting, thoroughly water the poinsettia to help loosen the soil, making it easier to remove from the pot. This will make it easier to separate the soil from the roots and reduce the risk of root damage. Carefully remove the plant from its old pot, taking care of the roots. If the roots are tightly bound, gently loosen them.
When repotting, ensure the plant is placed at the same depth in the new pot as it was in the old pot. Do not plant it too deeply, and do not bury the stem higher than it was in the previous pot, as this can damage the roots and lead to rot.
If necessary, trim off damaged or unhealthy roots. Healthy roots are white and firm.
Fill the pot around the root ball with fresh soil, gently pressing down the soil as you fill. Leave some space at the top of the pot for watering. The plant's root crown should be level with the soil surface.
After repotting the poinsettia, water it thoroughly until water starts to drain out of the holes at the bottom. This helps the soil settle, closing around the roots and removing unwanted air pockets around the roots.
After repotting the poinsettia, wait 2-3 weeks before fertilizing. Allow it to adjust to its new pot and soil.
Wintering Poinsettia
The poinsettia, known by its Latin name Euphorbia pulcherrima, requires special care during the winter months to maintain its health and reward us with beautiful colorful leaves and flowers the following year.
In winter, your poinsettia still needs a lot of indirect sunlight. Ideally, provide a daytime temperature of 64 - 75 °F (18-24 °C) and a nighttime temperature of 59 - 64 °F (15-18 °C). Avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature changes.
During winter, your poinsettia needs less water; only water when the top layer of soil appears dry. Gradually reduce fertilization and eventually stop it altogether.
The above sections on poinsettia light requirements, watering, and temperature provide more detailed guidance on winter care for poinsettia.
Yellow Poinsettia - Euphorbia pulcherrima
Summer Care for Poinsettia
Caring for poinsettia in the summer is a bit different from its winter care, as the plant is in its active growth phase during this period. At this time, you can fertilize the plant freely as previously described to support its development.
Its temperature requirement remains the same in spring and summer, between 64 - 75 °F (18-24 °C). Be careful with the sun, not to burn the leaves, and protect the plant from direct sunlight in summer as well. If your poinsettia is planted in the garden, ensure it receives only filtered light, but it is better to keep it in the shade. In summer, as temperatures rise, the poinsettia requires more frequent watering, so make sure its soil does not completely dry out.
Pruning and Thinning Poinsettia
Pruning the poinsettia is an important step in maintaining its health and shape. Pruning the poinsettia helps its growth and promotes flowering. The best time to prune the poinsettia is after flowering, usually in spring or early summer, following the fading of flowers and the appearance of new leaves.
With dedicated care, the poinsettia will bloom until February and gradually shed its colorful bracts by April. For poinsettia which kept in less sunny locations, this may happen sooner.
Use sharp, clean pruning shears or a knife for pruning. Blunt or dirty tools can damage the plant and lead to disease.
The milky sap in the poinsettia's stem is toxic, so wear gloves to avoid direct contact. If the sap gets on your skin, wash it off quickly with soap and water. The sap can also harm the poinsettia if it stays on the stems or leaves for too long, so wipe it off with a damp paper towel or cloth.
Remove dead, damaged, or weak shoots and leaves to help the plant grow healthier. If your poinsettia feels too dense, thin it by trimming side shoots, but do not overdo it. Do not remove all new shoots, only up to 30% of the plant. Thinning helps improve air circulation between the leaves.
After thinning, you can decide whether to keep your poinsettia small and compact or let it grow larger, as in its natural habitat, it can develop into a large bush. Pruning poinsettia also promotes new shoot growth and allows you to shape the plant.
If you choose to maintain a compact size, trim the shoots to about 4 - 8 inches (10 - 20 cm) from the base of the plant (from the top of its soil), depending on the desired size. To keep the compact form, check on it several times during the summer. Remove unwanted side shoots and trim the stems to the desired size if they grow. It is important to leave 3-4 leaves on the pruned stems to allow the plant to photosynthesize and by that gather energy.
You can let the plant grow into a large bush if you can meet its tropical needs year-round. In this case, pruning is only necessary for shaping the plant and cutting off excessively long stems and side shoots.
At the end of October and early November, do not prune the plant anymore, as it won't be able to recover properly. As the days shorten, the poinsettia prepares to bloom and change the color of its bracts. By Christmas, you can have a lush and colorful plant in your home.
The cuttings can be used to propagate the poinsettia. In this case, water the plant the day before pruning so that water and nutrients reach the upper shoots through the roots. After pruning, you can proceed with repotting the poinsettia.
Reblooming the Poinsettia
The bright red, yellow, or white upper leaves are not the poinsettia's flowers. The actual flowers of the poinsettia are tiny, relatively insignificant in size, greenish-yellow, and located in the center of the colorful bracts. The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) naturally begins to bloom around November and December, when the days shorten. With proper care, its blooming period usually lasts 2-3 months, with the flowers lasting 4-6 weeks before wilting.
Due to the light conditions of its natural habitat, the poinsettia is a short-day plant. If we want to make it bloom again, we need to create special conditions for it. Starting from the end of September or early October, keep it in a bright place during the day, protected from direct sunlight. However, we need to extend its evening hours.
Cover it or place it in a dark spot, or cover it with a box, or put it in a cabinet every day for at least 12-14 hours until the flowering starts, which is about 2 months. For example, every day from 6-7 PM until 8-9 AM.
The slightest light will stop the poinsettia from blooming (lamp light, street lights, TV light), so choose a place or solution where no light reaches it. If we forget to cover it for even one day, it will not bloom. To avoid wasting the effort so far, you can set a reminder every day for two months.
If we did everything right, by Christmas we can enjoy a beautifully blooming poinsettia. The formation of the colorful bracts also requires these extended nights.
After the plant has finished blooming, it usually enters a dormant state. At this time, the poinsettia loses its leaves, becoming quite bare. Most people mistakenly believe that their plant has dried out, but this is not the case. Simply prune it back and continue to care for it. It's also possible that the poinsettia does not lose its leaves, and its bracts can remain colorful until late spring, even summer. In this case, let it grow, and only prune the shoots at the end of summer - in August.
Propagating the Poinsettia
The easiest way to propagate your poinsettia is through cuttings and rooting the shoots, but it can also be propagated from seeds collected after flowering, though this is a bit more complicated and may involve some pollination tasks.
Propagating the Poinsettia by Cuttings
Propagating the poinsettia by cuttings is usually done in the spring or early summer. During this period, we can get numerous cuttings after pruning the poinsettia, which can be used for propagation. However, shoots can be cut for propagation at any time during the summer.
Select healthy shoots with many leaves. Cut 4-8 inch (10-20 cm) long stems with a clean, sharp pruning shear or knife. Remove the lower leaves so that they do not touch the soil after planting, but leave at least 2 leaves on the top of the stems.
The plant's milky sap may ooze from the cut stems, which can cause skin irritation if it comes into contact with the skin. After cutting the cuttings, let the sap dry for a few minutes or quickly dip the cut ends of the cuttings in warm (not hot) water to stop the milky sap from flowing out. If possible, dip the cut ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone.
Then, we can choose to root the poinsettia cuttings in water or plant them directly in soil.
Poinsettia shoots rooted in water will root within 4-5 weeks, and those planted directly in soil will root within 1-2 months. The advantage of rooting poinsettia in water is that we can continuously monitor the development of the plant's roots.
Plant the stem of the cuttings deeply into the soil when planted in the ground, so that only the upper leaves are visible above the ground. Water them and keep the soil consistently slightly moist, but not too wet. Cover the pot with a bag or glass to create a humid environment for rooting. Once rooting has occurred, start airing the cover and gradually remove it. Keep the new poinsettias in a warm, 68 - 75 °F (20 - 24 °C) temperature and in a bright place.
When our plant has rooted well in the soil (this usually takes 1-2 months), we can transplant it into a larger pot. It's best to plant the cuttings 2-3 stems per pot, as a fuller plant looks more attractive. Fertilize them every 2-4 weeks until autumn.
It's enough to leave 3-4 new shoots on the mother plant to ensure they color well the next time. If there are too many shoots, only a few will color. If necessary, the mother plant can be pruned back, leaving only 1-2 inches (3-4 cm) of the trunk.
Propagating the Poinsettia from Seeds
Usually, the poinsettia's flowers dry out by spring, so we can collect the seeds for propagation. The poinsettia has both male and female parts, so it can self-pollinate or pollinate the flowers next to it. Outdoors, insects do the pollination, but since the poinsettia is usually an indoor plant, we need to do this ourselves.
Gently rub every flower with a cotton swab, ensuring that pollen is picked up and transferred to another flower. Over time, we will notice the appearance of seed pods, which grow as green spheres on top of the flowers. When the flowers dry out, collect the seed pods and store them in a paper bag in a dry place until the seed pods turn brown and dry. Then we can extract the seeds from the seed pods.
The seeds inside the pods are small and dark. For the seeds to germinate, they need a cold treatment, similar to bulbous plants, so place the seeds in a cold place, such as a refrigerator, for about three months. After three months, we can plant the seeds about 1.5 inches (4 cm) deep in the soil. Germination can take a few weeks, during which time keep the soil warm and moist. Once new shoots appear, care for the poinsettia as usual.
Poinsettia flower in the center of its colorful bracts
Diseases, pests, and main causes of Poinsettia decline
The popular Christmas flower, the poinsettia, unfortunately, is not immune to diseases and pests. However, the most common problems are usually caused by inadequate care.
Poinsettia Diseases
Excessive watering can lead to bacterial infections, causing root rot. This can result in the poinsettia's leaves turning yellow and wilting. In this case, the roots become soft.
A fungal disease can cause dark spots on the leaves, known as leaf spot disease, which can be triggered by misting the poinsettia with a hand sprayer or by too high humidity. Remove the affected leaves and provide better ventilation for the plant.
Gray mold or Botrytis is a fungal disease that appears as gray mold on the leaves, stems, and flowers of the plant. High humidity or misting the leaves and poor ventilation can also cause it. Remove the affected parts and keep the plant dry, placing it in a well-ventilated area.
The plant can be attacked by a fungal disease called powdery mildew, which appears as a white, powdery layer on the leaves and stems. High humidity and poor ventilation can cause it. Remove the affected parts, and if necessary, use a fungicide.
Another disease of the poinsettia is bacterial gall or bacterial cancer, which can be caused by various bacteria. Infected plant parts develop dark, wet, or black spots that grow over time. The plant develops nodular structures indicating the formation of galls. This causes the leaves and stems to die and yellow. The disease often spreads through infected planting material or tools, and a too-wet environment favors its spread. Remove the infected parts as soon as possible and thoroughly clean the tools used.
Poinsettia Pests
Scale insects are common pests on poinsettias. They appear as white, waxy coatings or brown spots on the leaves and stems. Remove them with alcohol or wash them off with an insecticidal soap.
Aphids are tiny insects that suck the sap of the plant. They can be found on the undersides of the leaves or stems. Use an insecticidal soap to treat them.
Spider mites are tiny, spider-like insects found on the undersides of the leaves and stems, where they suck the plant's sap. The presence of fine webs is the easiest way to notice them. Use an insecticidal soap to treat them.
Environmental factors and improper care of Poinsettias
Extreme, sudden temperature changes, drafts, and too cold temperatures can all cause poinsettia leaves to drop.
If there is too little water or we water it too infrequently, the plant can wilt, droop, and dry out. Keep its soil slightly moist at all times but do not let it sit in water.
Overwatering the poinsettia can lead to root rot. Allow the top layer of soil to dry out between waterings. Both excessive and insufficient watering can cause the poinsettia's leaves to turn yellow.
Too little light can cause the poinsettia to become leggy and its leaves to pale and yellow. Find a place where it can receive more light.
Too much direct sunlight can cause the leaves to burn and dry out. Place it in a shadier, bright spot without direct sunlight.
Low humidity can cause the leaf edges to brown and curl. Increase the room's humidity or place a humidifying tray under the plant.
Too much fertilizer can cause root burn, preventing the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrients due to root damage. This can lead to poor growth and scorched, burnt-looking leaves, with the edges of the poinsettia leaves turning yellow and brown. In severe cases, the poinsettia's leaves may drop.
Too little fertilizer or nutrients can result in weak, slow growth and pale leaves.
Is the Poinsettia poisonous?
The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) can be toxic. Plants in the Euphorbiaceae family generally secrete a milky sap, which can be toxic. The poinsettia's sap can cause skin or mucous membrane irritation. If the sap contacts the skin, it can cause itching, rash, or a burning sensation. Ingesting parts of the poinsettia, such as the leaves and stems, can cause vomiting, nausea, diarrhea, or stomach pain.
Warn everyone in the household, especially young children, not to touch the plant, as even a slight injury to its leaves or stem can cause it to start leaking sap. In such cases, wipe off the sap with a soft napkin and wash hands thoroughly afterward. Keep it out of reach of any pets!
When repotting, especially when pruning the poinsettia, always wear gloves to prevent potential issues. If sap does get on the skin, wash it off thoroughly with plenty of water, and in case of poisoning, drink plenty of fluids.
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